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How to Build an Apex with Acrylic

Alpha Brush

Posted on October 14 2020

What is an apex? 
After you have the nail tips on, the apex is the spot right where the tip meets your nail. If you were to hit your nail on something you want added strength at that point so the tip doesn’t fracture or break off. The apex is the area where you build your acrylic to make that stress area stronger. 

How do you know exactly where to put the apex? 

Apply pressure by gently holding down your tip and notice where your nail bed turns lighter; that’s where you need to build your apex. Focus the majority of the acrylic in the middle, not at the cuticle nor towards the tip. Depending on the client’s preference, the tip itself should typically be the thickness of a credit card. Again, the apex is built at the weakest point of the nail and is created to give your nail balance and strength, so keep this in mind as you build your apex.

How to build the apex -

  1. Start with the first bead right in the middle and blend out but leave the majority of that product in the middle at the apex.
  2. Then place a second bead closer to the tip and use the very end of the brush to very gently blend towards the tip.
  3. Place a third bead closer to the cuticle and blend.
  4. Place the 4th bead right above and basically at the apex and then very, very gently brush to blend so you have a nice thick apex.

Using Natali’s 4 bead method you should be able to build a strong apex so there’s no chance of breakage. Keep your client’s (or your own) fingers happy and make sure they have the strongest possible set of acrylic nails that won’t break off. 

Natali Carmona, Alpha Brush Cutie-cle Member, breaks it down for us in this video; note that she is using her Alpha Brush Oval Kolinsky #10:  

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